The City of Bristol's Backyard Vineyards: Grape-Treading Grapes in Urban Spaces

Each 20 minutes or so, an older diesel-powered railway carriage arrives at a graffiti-covered stop. Close by, a police siren pierces the almost continuous road noise. Commuters rush by falling apart, ivy-draped fencing panels as storm clouds form.

It is maybe the last place you anticipate to find a well-established grape-growing plot. But James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated 40 mature vines sagging with plump purplish berries on a rambling garden plot situated between a line of historic homes and a commuter railway just north of Bristol town centre.

"I've seen people hiding heroin or other items in those bushes," states the grower. "Yet you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your vines."

The cameraman, forty-six, a documentary cameraman who runs a fermented beverage company, is not the only local vintner. He's pulled together a loose collective of growers who make vintage from four discreet urban vineyards tucked away in back gardens and community plots throughout Bristol. It is too clandestine to possess an official name so far, but the collective's messaging chat is called Grape Expectations.

City Wine Gardens Around the Globe

To date, Bayliss-Smith's plot is the sole location registered in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming global directory, which includes better-known city vineyards such as the 1,800 vines on the slopes of the French capital's renowned artistic district neighbourhood and over 3,000 vines with views of and within the Italian city. The Italian-based non-profit association is at the forefront of a initiative reviving city vineyards in traditional winemaking nations, but has identified them throughout the world, including cities in Japan, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.

"Grape gardens help cities remain greener and ecologically varied. These spaces preserve land from construction by creating long-term, productive farming plots within cities," says the organization's leader.

Similar to other vintages, those produced in cities are a result of the soils the plants thrive in, the vagaries of the climate and the individuals who care for the fruit. "A bottle of wine embodies the charm, local spirit, landscape and history of a urban center," notes the spokesperson.

Unknown Polish Grapes

Back in Bristol, Bayliss-Smith is in a urgent timeline to harvest the vines he cultivated from a plant abandoned in his garden by a Polish family. Should the rain arrives, then the birds may seize their chance to feast again. "Here we have the enigmatic Polish variety," he says, as he cleans bruised and mouldy grapes from the shimmering bunches. "We don't really know what variety they are, but they're definitely disease-resistant. Unlike noble varieties – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and other famous French grapes – you need not spray them with pesticides ... this is possibly a unique cultivar that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."

Collective Efforts Throughout Bristol

The other members of the collective are also taking advantage of sunny interludes between showers of fall precipitation. At a rooftop garden with views of Bristol's glistening waterfront, where historic trading ships once floated with casks of wine from France and Spain, one cultivator is harvesting her dark berries from approximately 50 vines. "I adore the aroma of the grapevines. It is so evocative," she says, stopping with a basket of fruit slung over her arm. "It recalls the fragrance of southern France when you roll down the car windows on holiday."

The humanitarian worker, fifty-two, who has spent over 20 years working for charitable groups in conflict zones, unexpectedly inherited the grape garden when she returned to the UK from Kenya with her household in 2018. She felt an strong responsibility to maintain the vines in the yard of their new home. "This vineyard has already endured multiple proprietors," she explains. "I really like the concept of environmental care – of handing this down to someone else so they keep cultivating from this land."

Terraced Gardens and Traditional Winemaking

Nearby, the final two members of the collective are busily laboring on the steep inclines of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has cultivated over one hundred fifty vines perched on ledges in her expansive property, which tumbles down towards the muddy River Avon. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she notes, indicating the tangled grape garden. "It's astonishing to them they can see rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."

Today, Scofield, sixty, is harvesting clusters of deep violet dark berries from lines of plants arranged along the hillside with the assistance of her daughter, her family member. The conservationist, a documentary producer who has worked on streaming service's nature programming and BBC Two's Gardeners' World, was inspired to plant grapes after seeing her neighbour's vines. She's discovered that amateurs can produce interesting, pleasurable natural wine, which can sell for more than £7 a serving in the growing number of wine bars focusing on low-processing vintages. "It is incredibly satisfying that you can truly make quality, natural wine," she says. "It is quite on trend, but really it's resurrecting an traditional method of making vintage."

"During foot-stomping the fruit, all the wild yeasts are released from the surfaces and enter the liquid," explains the winemaker, ankle deep in a container of tiny stems, pips and crimson juice. "This represents how wines were historically produced, but industrial wineries add preservatives to kill the wild yeast and then add a lab-grown yeast."

Challenging Environments and Inventive Approaches

In the immediate vicinity active senior another cultivator, who motivated Scofield to establish her grapevines, has assembled his friends to harvest Chardonnay grapes from the 100 plants he has arranged precisely across two terraces. Reeve, a northern English PE teacher who taught at the local university developed a passion for viticulture on regular visits to France. However it is a difficult task to cultivate this particular variety in the humidity of the valley, with temperature fluctuations moving through from the nearby estuary. "I wanted to produce French-style vintages in this location, which is somewhat ambitious," admits the retiree with amusement. "This variety is slow-maturing and very sensitive to mildew."

"My goal was creating European-style vintages here, which is a bit bonkers"

The unpredictable local weather is not the only problem encountered by winegrowers. Reeve has been compelled to erect a fence on

Jonathan Strong
Jonathan Strong

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